Sure, the person in the foreground appears to be the subject of this photo, but I think it's pretty clear that they really just wanted my blurry studliness in the background at this compitition on their homepage. :p
http://www.stonegardens.com/
Monday, May 18, 2009
Thursday, May 14, 2009
"Keep Breathing"
This is high on the list of useless climbing, um, stuff. Don't get me wrong, it's an excellent lyric in one of my favorite Radiohead songs; but in the context of climbing I think there's a good chance that no matter how hard someone is trying on a move, they're going to eventually breath. I'm just sayin.' Might as well tell them "no loose chalk." :p
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
The coefficient of Snug
In layman's terms, The coefficient of Snug is what makes "Pants," "Pants." (See below for a more official scientific definition.)
The coefficient of Snug is (of course) the dimensionless quantity symbolized by the Bulgarian letter (I) and is used to approximate the force of attraction. Attraction can be viewed, again as an approximation, as being of two primary types, static or kinetic.
The coefficient of static attraction is defined as the ratio of the maximum static attraction force (AF) between the surfaces in contact to the normal (N) force of a smokin' hot bottom. The coefficient of kinetic attraction is defined as the ratio of the kinetic attraction force (AF) between the surfaces in contact to the smokin' hot bottom's normal force:
AF
(I) = -----
N
Both static and kinetic coefficients of attraction depend on the pair of pants and smokin' hot bottom in contact; their values are usually approximately determined experimentally. For a given pair of pants and smokin' hot bottom, the coefficient of static attraction is usually larger than that of kinetic attraction; in some sets the two coefficients are equal, such as polyester-on-silk-unmentionables.
The attraction force is directed in the opposite direction of the resultant force acting on a booty. In the case of kinetic attraction, the direction of the attracting force may or may not match the direction of motion. A motionless smokin' hot bottom is subject to static attraction. The direction of the static attraction force can be visualized as directly opposed to the force that would otherwise cause motion, were it not for the static attraction preventing motion. In this case, the attraction force exactly cancels the applied force, so the net force given by the Vector sum, equals zero. It is important to note that in all cases, Newton's first law of motion holds as tightly as possible onto the smokin' hot bottom.
While it is often stated that the coefficient of snug (COS) is a "material property," it is better categorized as a "system property." Unlike true material properties (such as spandex, Lycra, polyester, and yoga-pants), the COS for any two materials depends on system variables like temperature, velocity, atmosphere, mood lighting, chalk dust markings and also what are now popularly described as aging and deaging times; as well as on geometric properties of the interface between the materials.
The coefficient of Snug is (of course) the dimensionless quantity symbolized by the Bulgarian letter (I) and is used to approximate the force of attraction. Attraction can be viewed, again as an approximation, as being of two primary types, static or kinetic.
The coefficient of static attraction is defined as the ratio of the maximum static attraction force (AF) between the surfaces in contact to the normal (N) force of a smokin' hot bottom. The coefficient of kinetic attraction is defined as the ratio of the kinetic attraction force (AF) between the surfaces in contact to the smokin' hot bottom's normal force:
AF
(I) = -----
N
Both static and kinetic coefficients of attraction depend on the pair of pants and smokin' hot bottom in contact; their values are usually approximately determined experimentally. For a given pair of pants and smokin' hot bottom, the coefficient of static attraction is usually larger than that of kinetic attraction; in some sets the two coefficients are equal, such as polyester-on-silk-unmentionables.
The attraction force is directed in the opposite direction of the resultant force acting on a booty. In the case of kinetic attraction, the direction of the attracting force may or may not match the direction of motion. A motionless smokin' hot bottom is subject to static attraction. The direction of the static attraction force can be visualized as directly opposed to the force that would otherwise cause motion, were it not for the static attraction preventing motion. In this case, the attraction force exactly cancels the applied force, so the net force given by the Vector sum, equals zero. It is important to note that in all cases, Newton's first law of motion holds as tightly as possible onto the smokin' hot bottom.
While it is often stated that the coefficient of snug (COS) is a "material property," it is better categorized as a "system property." Unlike true material properties (such as spandex, Lycra, polyester, and yoga-pants), the COS for any two materials depends on system variables like temperature, velocity, atmosphere, mood lighting, chalk dust markings and also what are now popularly described as aging and deaging times; as well as on geometric properties of the interface between the materials.
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